Friday, June 28, 2013

Janowicz fighter

The best Polish tennis player Jerzy Janowicz defeats Nicolas Almagro in 3 sets and comes to IV round of Wimbledon the first time in his career. Standing ovation for him on the Centre Court, where he was playing the first time.
After the match he said: Maybe it's my best result in a Grand Slam - first time in fourth round, first time on Centre Court.
Bravo JJ! 
More about JJ below: 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerzy_Janowicz


Polish climber's appeal concerning present situation in Pakistan

After the last incident on Nanga Parbat,  BogusÅ‚aw Margel - a member of Polish Alpine Club expedition worn all climbers of danger on this mountain. In his opinion exploring of Pakistan now is more dangerous than "russian roulette game". 
Talibans plan more attacs on tourists, all the more Pakistani government sympathise with them. Tourists can't feel safe because any local agency isn't able to protect their clients due to technical limitations. 
Krzysztof Wielicki decided to cancel the winter expedition on Nanga Parbat, but the team of two freelance Polish climbers - Tomasz Mackiewicz i Marek Klonowski aren't going to change their plans. 
They will try to do the first historical winter ascent. It'll be the third trial of this team. 

more info about appeal at: http://nanga2013.blogspot.com/



Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Controversy about the death on Broad Peak

The new controversial article about death of Polish climbers Maciek Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski occured yesterday at Polish website.
Leszek Szymanowski - a freelance journalist in the portal Nowy Ekran Ultima Thule presented his own vision about the tragedy on Broad Peak, quite different from the others' opinions.

He pointed 10 reasons why this tragedy took place:
1. The highest - 4th camp was too low.
2. The summit attack should be stopped after summiting by the first person of the team - Adam Bielecki cause it was too late.
3. Adam Bielecki is accused of leaving Tomek Kowalski on the mountain, meanwhile everyone, included Maciek, descented alone (on the basis of registered calls).
4. Adam didn't wait for Tomek and Maciek because he summited about 1 hour before them. Waiting for such a long time in the death zone after being there over 12 hours could cause the bigger tragedy. Adam was exhausted and wanted to descent from the ridge in the daylight and reach the camp as quickly as possible to prepare tea and food for his teammates
5. A weather window was predicted for the maximum 2 days, that's why all decided to summit in the whole team of 4 and not in 2 teams of 2 that has been planned before. They should have given the summit attack after that the first of the team reached the top. Staying on the top in the evening raised the risk to the maximum.
6. They had only one spot localizer for the whole team that was lost by Tomek before the summit attack. It could help in finding Tomek and Maciek by 2 Sherpas who took the rescue action.
7. These 2 Sherpas should have waited in the 4th camp in case of emergencies to take the rescue action faster.
8. Some famous Polish himalaists accuse Adam of being responsible for the tragedy. In author's opinion in such high mountains, in such conditions everyone is responsible for himself and the leader of expedition should have made the team to return.
9. The present Polish expedition on the Broad Peak is going to find not only dead himalaists but also some hard evidence what happend in March on this mountain (on the basis of record on Tom's GoPro).
10. Both Maciek and Tomek had strong and private motivations to reach the summit. Maciek wanted to improve he was able to do so after 25 years and for Tomek it was the first summit above 8 000 m. He intended to propose to her girlfriend on the top. 

And what's your thinking on it....? 

The Polish link to this article: http://ultimathule.nowyekran.net/post/93737,broad-peak-wyjasnienie-tragedii-berbeka-mogl-uratowac-macka-i-tomka

Martyna

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Pretty faces

After publishing such sad and bad news I should post something optimistic for the rest of the day.

Below, the trailer of the only totally female ski movie, presenting the best female riders from aroud the world.




Terrorist attack at Nanga Parbat

Today we know more details about Saturday attack in Nanga Parbat base camp. 
7 Polish climbers were in the mountains this time that protect them against terrorists. Some climbers and guides were able to run away from the base camp during the attack but some that weren't  unfortunately were klilled by Pakistani Taliban. 

People! what's wrong with you? How dare you deliver justice by your own killing innocent people?
These people: climbers, tourists give you work, money and food for your wifes and children. They felt protected being in high mountains close to nature. They even didn't imagine they could die from terrorist's hand. Who gave you right to kill others?
I'm so disgusted by the modern world. Instead of enjoying every day we wonder why that is...

R.I.P. climbers!

More infos at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/06/23/pakistan-gunmen-climbers_n_3484986.html

in Polish: http://off.sport.pl/off/1,111379,14158265,Szczegoly_masakry_pod_Nanga_Parbat.html

in Italian: http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=40998

Monday, June 24, 2013

Bad news from Nanga Parbat base camp

During the Saturday's night a terrorist attack took place at Nanga Parbat base camp in Pakistan. 

Armed men from an extremist Taleban military group attacked the base camp at 1 a.m. and killed 11 climbers: 1 from Lithuania (member of International Nanga Parbat Expedition 2013 leaded by Polish climber Ola Dzik), 2 from Slovakia, 3 from Ukraine, 3 from China, 1 from Nepal and 1 Pakistani.
Poles are safe .

About 50 climbers belonging to different expedition are currently at Nanga Parbat but they are protected by Pakistani police.

Ukrainian from International Nanga Parbat Expedition 2013 were evacuated on Sunday and the rest of members are waiting for evacuation today. 

It was the first terrorist attack in this Baltisan region, considered as safe and relatively stable so far.

Pakistan is beautiful but more and more dangerous...