I had opportunity to meet him several times during his interesting lectures. He was a guest at the 9th Krakow Mountain Festival in Poland.
The book "Skazany na góry" (Polish title) really impressed me by awsome and interesting life of Kazakh climber. In his biography he wrote about the begginings of his mountain adventure. Many people have not even heard of his history as an theatre actor, camerman and a soldier of Kazakhstan army.
Several times he won leader titles in the mountain trails:
- 1997 - 1999 Champion of Kazakhstan in speed ascent to the Amangeldy peak (3999)
- 1999 - in 42 days have climbed all 5 “seventhousand” peaks of CIS(USSR) known as “Snow Leopard”
- in 2000 on Chan Tengri in 12 h 21min,
- in 2006 - broke a route record in International Elbrus Race - 3 h 55 min 38 sec. (beated by the Polish ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel in 2010)
Denis reached the fourteen 8000er Main-Peaks without oxygen as a 15th man in the world. He is an author of 2 first winter ascents: on Makalu in 2009 (with Simone Moro) and Gasherbrum II in 2011 (with Simone Moro and Cory Richards). He led new routs on Broad Peak, Manaslu and Cho Oyu.
K2 and Nanga Parbat are still waiting for the first winter ascent... Who will be the first? Poles or someone else, maybe Danis Urubko?
Happy birthday! I'll keep my fingers crossed fot your further successes in the mountains and take care of you while climbing!
with Denis Urubko
Marco with Danis Urubko