Monday, July 29, 2013

Denis Urubko Anniversary

Denis Urubko -the most famous Kazakh climber was born in Russia 40 years ago on July 29th 1973 . 

I had opportunity to meet him several times during his interesting lectures. He was a guest at the 9th Krakow Mountain Festival in Poland.
The book "Skazany na góry" (Polish title) really impressed me by awsome and interesting life of Kazakh climber. In his biography he wrote about the begginings of his mountain adventure. Many people have not even heard of his history as an theatre actor, camerman and a soldier of Kazakhstan army. 
Several times he won leader titles in the mountain trails: 
- 1997 - 1999 Champion of Kazakhstan in speed ascent to the Amangeldy peak (3999)
- 1999 -  in 42 days have climbed all 5 “seventhousand” peaks of CIS(USSR) known as “Snow Leopard”
- in 2000 on Chan Tengri in 12 h 21min,
- in 2006 - broke a route record in International Elbrus Race  - 3 h 55 min 38 sec. (beated by the Polish ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel in 2010)

Denis reached the fourteen 8000er Main-Peaks without oxygen as a 15th man in the world. He is an author of 2 first winter ascents: on Makalu in 2009 (with Simone Moro) and Gasherbrum II in 2011 (with Simone Moro and Cory Richards). He led new routs on Broad Peak, Manaslu and Cho Oyu. 

K2 and Nanga Parbat are still waiting for the first winter ascent... Who will be the first? Poles or someone else, maybe Danis Urubko?

Happy birthday! I'll keep my fingers crossed fot your further successes in the mountains and take care of you while climbing!

with Denis Urubko

Marco with Danis Urubko

Thursday, July 25, 2013

VALHALLA - the new ski & snowboard film of Sweetgrass Productions

After four famous ski & snowboard movies of Sweetgrass Productions: Solitaire, Signatures, Hand Cut, Shorts we've got awaited a new production "VALHALLA".

At the moment the teaser is available (see below). The full movie we can watch in fall 2013. 
All Nick Waggoner's productions show quite differente attitude than most ski & snowboard movies - not only perfect powder skiing, drops and tricks but skiing as a philosophy of life as well.

Can't wait for the full feature! 

Producers description of their new work:

"The weightlessness of youth: every breath radiates opportunity and hope; every sense thrives on the wealth of the present; every thing whispers of brilliance and awe. When you’ve seen the season’s first great snow through the eyes of a child—you’ve known true happiness. But what happened to that simple joy? Where do we find the freedom that time and wisdom stole away?
Valhalla, Sweetgrass Productions’ fourth feature film, is the tale of one man's search to rediscover the freedom of his youth. Feeling the distant heat of it's fire still burning in the mountains of the frozen north, he goes in search of those tending the flame—the untamed, the wild, and the outcast dwelling on the fringe.
Weaving narrative-driven style with award-winning, face-melting backcountry ski and snowboard cinematography; Valhalla is a vivid explosion of color, character, snow, and nostalgic soul."
Presented by Patagonia
Supported by Patagonia, Dynafit, Clif Bar, Outdoor Research,, Blizzard/Tecnica, Osprey, Venture Snowboards, Flylow, Gentemstick, Kootenay Mountain Culture Magazine, and Whitewater Ski Resort.
Locations: Interior British Columbia, Rogers Pass, BC, Revelstoke, BC, Valhalla Range, BC, Haines, AK, Glacier Bay, AK, Juneau, AK, Eaglecrest, AK, Sentry Lodge, BC, Meadow Lodge, BC, Terrace, BC
Athletes: Eric Hjorleifson - Cody Barnhill - Carston Oliver - Zack Giffin
Johan Olofsson - Adraon Buck - Ryland Bell - Josh Dirksen - Aidan Sheahan
Molly Baker - Forrest Shearer - Taro Tamai - Stephan Drake - Eliel Hindert
Will Cardamone - Jaime Laidlaw - Trevor Hunt - Donny Roth - Jesse Hoffman
Austin Ross - Nick McNutt - Paul Kimbrough - Alex Paul - Thayne Rich - Kazushi Yamauchi

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Farewell mass for Artur Hajzer

Today the farewell mass to commemorate Artur Hajzer was held in the Cathedral of Katowice in Poland. 
Artur was buried in crevasse at the bottom of Gasherbrum I, where he died after the fatal fall in the Japanese couloir on July 7th.
Sympathy for his family esp. mother, wife and sons. 

Elephant (Artur's nick name) see you somewhere in the mountains!

overtraining syndrom

It has been 3 weeks since I twisted my ankle during tennis play. It' s hard time cause I can't do any activities despite the sunny summer. I tried to climb last weekend, but after one route I had to give up. The pain and a little swelling are still present. 
I suppose my contusion could be caused due to overtraining. 
So if we are active daily we can't forget about regeneration and rest. 
I used to play tennis almoust every day a week, and climb in weekends. And even though I was in good form, my muscles, joints, tendons and bones sometimes need some rest. 

There are some basic signs that indicate you may be overtrained:
1. You fell fatigue, exhausted, sluggish during the day.
2. You have problem with sleeping and feel restless and excitable.
3. Your joints, bones, muscles hurt.
4. You’re suddenly falling ill a lot more often.
5. After a normal training you feel like after a big workout and you need more time to rally.
6. Loss in apetite.
7. Headache.

8. Elevated morning pulse.
9. Sudden inability to complete workout.

No one knows you better than you do. So observe yourself everyday to catch any indicators that your body had more than it has handle to avoid contusions. 
And don't forget about stretching yourself after every kind of activity.
I'll write more about how to stretch and why it's so important the next time. 

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

in memoriam of Artur Hajzer

First winter ascent with Jerzy Kukuczka

Polish Gasherbrum Winter Expedition 2011/12 english subtitles

Artur Hajzer came back on Gasherbrum forever...

Artur Hajzer is dead. Another sad news from Himalayas.

On July 10th we received the confirmation about the death of one of the leading Polish climber Artur Hajzer in Karakorum during descent from Gasherbrum I.
Artur Hajzer was born in 1962. He started the mountain exploration  in 1976, climbing in Tatra Mountains and in the Alps. He is best known for the first winter ascent of Annapurna with Jerzy Kukuczka in 1987. He was climbing with Jerzy Kukuczka, Krzysztof Wielicki, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Jerzy Szymczak. He had seven main 8000er summits to his name, some via new routes.
He was founder of Polish Winter Himalaism program (2010 - 2015). Within the program, he was a leader of the expedition on Gasherbrum I in 2012, when Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb made the first winter ascent on this mountain.
Artur Hajzer died on Sunday after fatal fall in Japanese Couluoir while climbing with his partner Marcin Kaczkan. They planned to make the travers between two Gasherbrums I and II.
It's the hard time for Polish himalaism. After the death of Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski on the Broad Peak in March, we lost another talented climber and good friend.

I had opportunity, pleasure and honor to know Artur personally. After an accident of broking ankle on Broad Peak in 2005, he came for physiotherapy treatment to me. 
I had many occasions to take part in his presentations. We used to meet sometimes in indoor climbing gym in Katowice, where he taught climbing his younger son. 

Climb In Peace Artur. We will miss you! 

In memoriam


Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Goodbye Tito Traversa

Tito Traversa - 12 years old Italian climber died 3 days ago as a result of a terrible accident at Orpierre in France. He was one of climbing's youngest prodigies.
He climbed his first 5.14 at the age of 10 and his fourth 5.14a just 2 days before fatal fall.
In the day of the accident he was climbing with the local climbing team with 10 other kids and three adults. 
The quickdraws used to equip the route were slung incorrectly, which resulted in total failure and a groundfall. Despite the fact the four correctly strung quickdraws were on the route, these quickdraws were unfortunately placed too low to save Traversa. Traversa was airlifted to Grenoble, after the accident where he was hospitalized. He died after fighting for his life for three days. 

Take care when you use quickdraws and check them twice before climbing.
See the instruction film below. Streaky  Desroy shows us how a rubber band on an open sling can be dangerous:

Thursday, July 4, 2013

Polish offensive in Wimbledon

Yesterday it was the important day for the Polish tennis. Since Fibak's time, when in 1980 he reached the quartel-final of Wimbledon, any male player haven't reapeted his succes for 33 years.
The first time in history we had absolutely Polish quartel-final match; JJ (Jerzy Janowicz - 21 years old tennis player) defeated his friend Lukasz Kubot (10 years older) in 3 sets. For both of them it is the life success. 
JJ will play with Andy Murray in tomorrow semi-final.
Except for them, our female player - Agnieszka Radwanska, today plays in semi-final with Sabina Lisicki - German player with Polish roots. 
For Agnieszka it's the second semi-final in Wimbledon. Last year she defeated other "almost" Polish player Angelique Kerber -  German professionalist also with Polish roots.
The first time in history we have 2 Polish semifinalists. 

I'm really proud of Polish tennis.

Some higlights from yesterday Polish match below: